Debbi Snook, The Plain Dealer
Published: Friday, September 24, 2010, 1:24 PM Updated: Friday, September 24, 2010, 1:42 PM
Into the freshened night life of Cleveland’s Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood alights Roseangel, an upscale taco place calling itself “A Moderne Tacqueria.” The vintage storefront has been redone in a Fashion Week version of a Mexican “Day of the Dead” palette. The room dances in orange and cherry walls in alligator-skin textures and white tabletops with black polka dots. It’s serious, candy-colored fun.
The menu? Tacos. Mostly tacos. And why not? Across the street is Happy Dog, the hot-dog emporium. A few blocks away are notable spots for Vietnamese (Minh Anh), Hispanic (Rincon Criollo) and Irish pub food (Stone Mad). New American joints (Luxe, Gypsy Bean, Latitude 41 N) attract their own loyal crowds.
If any neighborhood can handle fancy tacos, this one can, especially as a dinner-and-a-show stop for Cleveland Public Theatre, the refurbished Capitol Theatre or any one of the downtown venues several minutes away.
It helps that these are out-of-the-ordinary tacos. Chef and co-owner Marlin Kaplan, an artful conceptualist in Cleveland’s dining scene, already is in the neighborhood with Luxe. Portion-size options are one of Luxe’s draws, something tacos wrap around easily, too. Not too hungry? Order one taco. Really hungry? Go for more. Roseangel offers bread-plate sizes of these hand-held specialties, most at $4.25 each, and in slightly discounted trios ($11.75) or a platter of four pairs ($30). It’s up to you and your merry band to mix and match flavors from more than 12 well-selected versions.
WE WANT YOUR REVIEW
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Tacos come with soft or hard shells, with soft recommended for the neatest sharing. That’s the easy part. The list of fillings is long and sometimes frustrating. We’d go back in a second for the hanger steak taco with crispy onions and chipotle mayo, or the spicy lobster with cucumber and green chile cream (add $2.50). Everything we had was fabulously fresh and nicely matched in texture, making us think the kitchen turns on a dime. Witness the bronzed edges of fried eggplant, plushly crisp breading on the perch and just the right chew for the steak and the grilled pork. Taco choices also include duck confit, potato-crusted chicken and tofu, among others.
What was sometimes missing was a vibrancy implied by the word taco. We don’t mean chile-pepper hot. (When they say spicy on the menu here, they hardly mean it.) But more of a pungent, pepper or herbal counterpoint would do for a younger or more adventurous palate. It’s all there on the menu, with nine different salsas offered. An extra dab of the right one on the plate — or at least a recommendation from the menu — would give an option to customers wanting complexity, not just comfort. That’s true, too, for side dishes of rice and beans, which tasted a little more reserved than necessary.
Nothing is missing from the guacamole, a must-order appetizer with avocado, onions, cilantro, lime and jalapenos in just the right balance. Among salsas, we loved the zesty red picante and enjoyed the sweet aftertaste of the pineapple and roasted chile. To finish, don’t miss the house caramel custard, a cumulus cloud of creamy sweetness ($7).
One confession here. Kaplan knows us and spotted us on the first visit — even when we arrived at the end of the trailing group, wearing sunglasses. Service that night seemed to be provided by a seemingly stressed-out staff. Kaplan wasn’t there for our second try, when everything worked at a fine pace but was marred by a promise of fresh-squeezed lemonade. That substance turned out, we were later told, to be a “mix” that the bartender “dumped” after we complained of an off-flavor. The offending drinks were taken from the bill.
Roseangel has a staggeringly long list of margaritas, specialty drinks, wine and beer. We can testify only to the Rosita, a hibiscus-infused Rosangel tequila with pomegranate, lemon and a great need to be sipped slowly. It was a $9.50 pleasure. And easier than asking for lemonade.
TASTE BITES Roseangel
Where: 5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland.
Contact: roseangel-cle.com, 216-961-5800.
Hours: 5-11 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 5 p.m.-midnight Thursday, 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Starters, $5.50-$12.50; salsas, $2.50; tacos, $4.25 (with discounts for three or eight); desserts, $7.
Reservations: Taken for parties of six or more.
Credit cards: Most major cards ac cepted.
Cuisine: New American, Mexican
Kid-friendliness: Taco onesies will do it.
Bar service: Full.
Accessibility: Full.
Grade: **
Ratings: One star means fair; 2 stars, good; 3 stars, very good; 4 stars, ex ceptional. Zero stars: not recom mended.) Plain Dealer reviewers make at least two anonymous visits to each restaurant and do not accept compli mentary meals. Read past reviews at cleveland.com/dining.
[Cleveland.com Article] [PDF]
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